I put a radius on the fins of the flywheel today. Now each fin is like lathe tool bit - curved with a little relief and about 25 degrees of rake! Sure they aren't pointed any more but now I just have another 1/4" before I get chewed up. A guard is in order for sure.
I sealed the tank today as well. I used Por-15 and that tiny little can easily flowed throughout the whole thing. It looks pretty much like thin metallic silver paint. They say not to save it after draining out the excess but to my surprise I got about 4/5 of the can back! I decided to pop the lid on it and keep it for later. Who knows? If it looks the same when I open it again, I'll use it.
Here are a couple shots of the floor boards I'm making. I decided on them as they were on the street versions of the Cyclone as well as on the "strip stock" racing models. I'm using 1/4" 6160 and I'll build some nice supporting brackets for them. I came up with 13.5" X 4.5" as that looked about right. I might try to checker them using the mill or maybe adhere a rubber face on them - we'll see.
Oh, and here's how I finished the throttle up. The tensioned return spring is way too strong but needed for now. If left this way the throttle plate pivot will eventually wear an oval shape into the carb body, make it difficult to modulate, and eventually cause total failure. I will try to mount a small compression spring in the hand control to push the inner cable "plug" back to the idle point.
Oh, and I started it today too! I jacked around with a charger for a bit but when I used cables from my car's battery, it fired right up. With a bypassed vacuum fuel pump, lightened flywheel, no air cleaner, and no muffler, it fired right after a few cranks. Though I'm not done, I sure thought the combination of mods would make it difficult to start - especially since the carbs are different on gravity fed B&S models. The throttle worked as planned as it scratched it's way backwards on the driveway. I am developing an honest fear of this thing.
I put a radius on the fins of the flywheel today. Now each fin is like lathe tool bit - curved with a little relief and about 25 degrees of rake! Sure they aren't pointed any more but now I just have another 1/4" before I get chewed up. A guard is in order for sure.
I sealed the tank today as well. I used Por-15 and that tiny little can easily flowed throughout the whole thing. It looks pretty much like thin metallic silver paint. They say not to save it after draining out the excess but to my surprise I got about 4/5 of the can back! I decided to pop the lid on it and keep it for later. Who knows? If it looks the same when I open it again, I'll use it.
Here are a couple shots of the floor boards I'm making. I decided on them as they were on the street versions of the Cyclone as well as on the "strip stock" racing models. I'm using 1/4" 6160 and I'll build some nice supporting brackets for them. I came up with 13.5" X 4.5" as that looked about right. I might try to checker them using the mill or maybe adhere a rubber face on them - we'll see.
Oh, and here's how I finished the throttle up. The tensioned return spring is way too strong but needed for now. If left this way the throttle plate pivot will eventually wear an oval shape into the carb body, make it difficult to modulate, and eventually cause total failure. I will try to mount a small compression spring in the hand control to push the inner cable "plug" back to the idle point.
Oh, and I started it today too! I jacked around with a charger for a bit but when I used cables from my car's battery, it fired right up. With a bypassed vacuum fuel pump, lightened flywheel, no air cleaner, and no muffler, it fired right after a few cranks. Though I'm not done, I sure thought the combination of mods would make it difficult to start - especially since the carbs are different on gravity fed B&S models. The throttle worked as planned as it scratched it's way backwards on the driveway. I am developing an honest fear of this thing.
