I just had to put together what I had collected to see how it sits. The front end is lower than planned but I sort of like the look. I may just widen the fork and raise it a tad. Rake is only about 3" also. Wonder how a stearing damper disguised as the oiler would look? J/K. I have to trim the down and seat tubes and add the "cradle". I eventually want to make a yoke - get rid of the bike stem and make a better mount. A triple tree setup is an option and is seen on many racers. The stock Cyclone front end may not have had the fork tubes extend to the top yoke but this seems to have been retrofitted as an "indian-like" modification to many racers - not just the Cyclones. I picked a bike to model that has few examples and there aren't that many pics of the Cyclones for reference. I have seen several frame variations as well. Apparently there a handful of production racers, there were street models(even more rare today), and street models modded to racers(by the factory or by a privateer, I don't know). In addition, I sense the factory experimented with each racer built as each was a "one off" so few were identical in setup anyway. Good thing this isn't a very technical build. Truthfully, one could build a looped frame and, depending on motor, tank, and paint, call it anything. Remember this is not a Paul Brodie build! At one point or another just about all manufacturers crossed over the same points of style and technology. BTW, I'm up in the air on engines. Found a few old 30's Brit singles but I don't know if this is deserving of one of those. Perhaps the B&S single would be along the lines of the original scope of the project - to do what has been done over and over but to do it better with the "right" proportions and "correct" look.
Well mocked up anyway. I fretted about getting this thing lined up without a full frame jig but got it spot on the first time. Okay the calipers say it isn't spot on but it is way too close to alter - I might never get it closer! I guess all that measuring, marking, anglefinding, etc paid off. Here are some shots. First the dropouts tacked in(albeit poorly). Here you can see the seat stays mounted to the seat tube. I actually ended up grafting in the top bends of the donor bike's stays(about 6" down). I hated to do that as I had some nicely bent 3/4" tubing I had done myself BUT I fishmouthed them a bit too much and they appeared as if they would be too narrow for the balloon tire. I'm sure I can find plenty of reasons to bend different tubing aroud here. I will likely have to put a brace across the stays near the top(almost like a brake caliper mount) as I just don't trust anything from that donor bike! Hey, if I bend that, it might look like it was on the original 1915 version. Don't let me forget to do that! Here's what it looks like. Now I get to start on the fork and soon I will have a roller!
It's been two months since I've posted. Hadn't really done too much until I got the top tube, chain stays, and seat stays bent. I used a standing heavy duty conduit bender and torched the .120 1 1/8" DOM for the top tube. I don't recommend this hack method but I got lucky. The 1" die was actually 1 1/8", the 3/4" die was 7/8", and who knows about the 1/2"! What junk some of these things are. I had to modify the smallest 1/2" die to fit the 3/4" tubing. The 3/4" tubing is thin wall so you have to be really careful with that unless you have a proper bender. Thin wall likes to crinkle on the inside of the radius. Here is the top tube. It's all just tacked for now. I hope to have a buddy tig it for me when I get it together. The mig might penetrate enough but if I'm riding it........ The bend doesn't look too bad considering. Here are some shots laying out the chain stays. The Workmate was leveled after the frame was secure. The plywood is only for marking and for horizontal layout. I struck lines on each side of the main tubes and reverse engineered what I needed from my known rear axle width of 4.227". Vertical setup will be off a known level surface that I'll set up then. The chainstays will actually be 10 degrees from horizontal and milled with slots for the dropouts. You can see the dropouts which themselveswill be oriented at about a 20 degree angle. It sure would be nice if it was all horizontal but I want it to look correct. Remember, those shortcuts add up and you end up with a generic looking bicycle mod IMO. Speaking of bicycles: Here is one of the few parts taken from a bicycle - the bottom bracket(for the crank). This and a 70's fork. I will gusset the bottom bracket well before it's done. Some racers had no gussets there and some did via some funky suspension brackets. I suspect these to be class C machines - racers prepped from street frames and not production racers. I welcome the bracket for the extra support. After I struggle through this part - mostly trying to keep it all even, I will address the fork mods. That will be a different headache for a different post.