It seems that I'm slowly redoing every part that I at one time felt was adequate. Because of the stem to bars brazing issue, I knew I would want different bars in there. I didn't like the idea of using my one shot on brazing the stem to bars that look obvious as flipped bicycle bars - similar to the Michealson bikes as they might be. Anyway, rather than splurging for a new 1" die for the JD2 bender, I decided to use some 7/8" clubman bars that were hanging on the wall. These are a thicker wall tubing and, once cut apart, allowed me to weld up what you see above. The center section is 1" scrap and is plug welded to the bars. Ironically, I used every bit of the clubmans except for the 90 degree elbows(<1" on each side wasted). The width is arbitrary but I knew I didn't want them too short. Any opinions? I think it looks more period than the previous bars and stem for sure. They are also more ergonomic and create a less aggressive posture......overall more comfortable. Here's another shot or two.
These are stainless bolts. I have turned the heads to remove any markings. You can do this with a file or even with a belt sander but I like the look of them turned on a lathe. If the heads were taller, they would look even better. The washers are aircraft washers - thicker than usual. I got them from Airparts Inc. here in Kansas City. I would think most major cities would have an aircraft building place. It's worth looking a place like this up. They have tooling received from the aircraft industry. The tooling is mostly used but they are retired far before their useful life is up and they are quite inexpensive. USA-made end mills are like $3-$5, reamers $2-4, etc. It's at least 1/4 the price of new USA tooling. They also have fasteners, AN fittings(new for a couple bucks each), safety wire, Chromo tubing, 6160 plate, and basically most things you need for aircraft maintenance. My grandfather used to say, "If you can't find it at Ace Hardware, then you don't need it." I'll admit, Ace/True Value has more random stuff than large home improvement centers but they are expensive and I'd rather get bulk aircraft quality stuff. 25 new washers of about any SAE size are about $2 so I just grab a few baggies everytime I go. I need to make a list so I get stuff I don't already have. Man, am I rambling or what?
Oh, I found this choke cable there for $1. It will be a good period-looking sleeve where the throttle cable exits the handlebars. I would think that you could strip some bicycle brake cable housing and use that too.
Okay, here's the plate I made to cover the oil filter mount. There is a channel milled in the back that allow the oil to bypass from the filter feed to the return. I mentioned it before but you can see how ugly the filter would be by looking at the older motor posts.
It really stuck out there, wasn't needed, and didn't look the part.
Linda snuck out and took this. I am using a facing mill with a pilot guide (made from an old screwdriver) to mill down four bosses on the engine case. It cut very smoothly and cleanly. These bosses were interfering with the Comet 40 series clutch. The clutch still needs to be spaced out too far from the block but but every 1/4" helps! A few new friends have been following along and encouraging me to finish this thing. The first is Ed. He found my pics and noticed how similar our projects are. It is amazing how similar they appear. Would it be cool to have a get-together with several replicas and race them around a horsetrack? Well it would be to me. The Lifan motor has a full tranny and should really go. Check out his version of the Indian bars. Nice idea. I'll have to steal that idea on a later project. I like some of the little details he uses. I hope to keep this blog updated with the progress of others as well. Another is Patrick from Belgium (Where the Trappist Monks hang out and brew beer!). Here is a link to a cool site that featured his bike more than once. It's a killer 1948 Harley bobber. I dog on (new)Harleys a lot but not these! I'd ride one in a heartbeat. http://www.knucklebusterinc.com/features/2008/09/04/patricks-1948-harley-wl-part-2/ While you are there, surf around that site. It's pretty cool. Patrick also sent a link to pics of his 1925 Moto Lady, a Belgian marque with a 147cc motor. This is one of the company's earliest models and they build motos up until the beginning of WW2. He says it's the oldest one known right now. 2-stroke technology wasn't what it is today but it sure is neat and with plenty of the original parts. Nice keeper! http://www.hesy.be/foto/thumbnails.php?album=13 Here is the Lady's fuel line. just what I was planning for my project. Ironic. BTW, thanks to those that help by expressing interest. I'm always interested in seeing what you guys have going on. Feel free to leave messages on the blog here as well. Dave
Well, I left the Wald stem on the project far too long. It looks too bicycle-ish and puts the bars forward a few more inches on what is already quite a reach. I jacked around with various bits of tubing and wasted half the evening. Finally I looked again at some online pics and can't see any other way to make it look similar to the original than to drill through the center of the bars. This to me is principally wrong and goes against common sense engineering. I'm confident that the bars used back then were of some significant thickness. To strengthen the bars available today, I would likely need to braze them into the stem. You'll see what I mean by following along. I haven't posted a boring step-by-step record of anything in a while and that's the kind of stuff I like to see so I took some pics of the stem build. This is a simple project but one that requires you to think about process order. Remember, I am NOT a machinist. Here's how I went about it. I bored a hole 1" in diameter in the 1.25" solid round using a mill. Try that with a drill press. Finding center is so much easier on a mill. Once the hole is bored I center drilled the piece. Notice this piece is not properly held. Something that long should be supported along it's length. I chose to go easy and since little axial force is applied in center drilling, it worked fine. Push to hard and it could walk the bit and damage the tool, the stem, or me! Fair warning. I bored it on through with a nominal size for the stem bolt. I had to reach into the top hole to center drill the other side before continuing the bolt hole. I left the chuck turning while I snapped this pic. 5 tries later, I got a shot with the bit visible through the side. :) Next I cut the head of the stem from the bar stock. I considered turning it all from a solid piece but that's a lot of chips! Here I'm boring the bottom side for the shaft. The jaws didn't like this so perhaps I should have cut the stock then bored the 1" hole. It worked but it sure doesn't look like it. I left a small lip inside the stem head for the shaft to butt up against. I brazed the shaft into the stem head then sleeved it with another tube. I didn't have the wall thickness needed at the time to make it of one tube. The two tubes are brazed to each other and to the head. I cut the angle for the stem wedge prior to brazing the tubes together and gave it a final pass on the belt sander to match them up. Here's how it turned out. Feel free to comment. It is much better looking than the Wals stem IMO but it won't look right or function if left this way. Several issues: I need to make a larger stem bolt head as per the original and I will probably turn the fork nut down so it doesn't look so spindly there. Shortening that will drop the stem making it effectively stiffer as well. As it is, there is no clamping action on the bars but there is some slop that will only get worse as the hole in the thin bars elongates around the stem bolt. I need to either braze this set of bars to the stem or bend a new set of bars and braze those in. What's amazing is how many things get changed from the mockup to the end product. Though reach is shortened by 2-3" inches it still feels very long!
It's starting to look like it belongs in the fleet! Here is one of the brackets. 5 all hand formed from 1/8 stock. Remarkably consistent considering I used no jigs or mandrels. I finished stitching up the tank, adding the filler neck, and fabbing the brackets. I'm off to find a NPT tap to add either the petcock I have or, if I find what I'm looking for, add that one. I want a small brass job but not the little cheapy ones with the stainless rod as a lever. We'll see. Next will be the jackshaft.
Now me with a sunburn, here is the new tank tacked up and sitting in the frame. I don't use the auto darkening helmet like I should for tacking. It's just too dark to see and when manipulating everthing between tack welds it's just too much of a hastle. As simple as the Cyclone tank looks, and it is, it still isn't easy to form those parts on all four corners. The hard part is done. I really dread welding it all up - maybe I should wait for a friend to move his tig to his new house as what I hate the most is grinding down all the mig welds. I have yet to install the fuel filler and and outlet bung. I altered the locations of the brackets from that of the original - no real reason other than to eliminate one. Remember this is not a perfect replica.............. it has a lawn mower engine! Not so funny story: Before tacking it, I took one of the rear side panels over to the bench sander to trim some of the front radius when I saw the tank(top, bottom, and middle sides tacked up) slide off the other end of the bench. It was sitting on plate steel with a 90 degree magnetic welding clamp holing it on it's side. It landed right on the nose and wadded it way out of shape... and after all that anal retentive prep. I had to cut a few tacks and dolly it all back. Still think it added some distortion. Only one bracket is made so far so I'm far from done with the tank portion if this thing. If anyone can make water decals let me know!
Well, I built the first tank with 20 gauge sheet. It fit really well but was warped a bit too much for my taste. A friend thougt it was salvageable but I felt I had learned too much from the first one not to apply it to another. The second one is cut from 18 gauge as it was a bit tricky to be consistent on the welds with the 20 gauge. With metal that thin and a MIG there is little room for error. Pulling gives a good bead but prevents you from seeing the fine joint. Pushing can give you a hole pretty quick. I don't like the idea of spotting the entire thing. a) cold starts = leak city, and b) it takes forever. Here are some pics of the second tank in progress: Above you can see all the panels cut, rolled, deburred, and cleaned. You can see the four spacers bolted to the bottom panel. They are center drilled and tapped on both ends for 1/4 20. There will be two more in the back but I wanted to get the tricky curve set before I made the last two bent spacers. Here are the top and bottom tacked together. You can see my dedicated powder coating oven under the workbench. Used to be an over/under. I compressed it into one oven. I ordered one of Brooks new B190 saddles. It's the largest now made and should fit the bill. It is a compound spring variety but unfortunately comes only in black. The site didn't mention it but it is now on backorder. I have since seen that it's that way anyplace I've looked so I might be waiting a bit..... 3 weeks so far but my card was charged the next business day. Cheap Chinese tool report: Well I bought another one. This time a 3-in-1 sheetmetal machine. Sliproll, sheer, and finger brake all in one. 350lbs of instant crap. Why don't I learn? I had to build a block to hold one end of the top roller in as it would jump out of it's channel under any pressure. The cam bolt that held it was completely inadequate. The roller works okay even on 12" of 18 gauge(typically rated for 22 gauge). The corners are more rolled than the center but that is easy to remedy. I have little expectation from the sheer but the finger brake could be very useful. Oh and the air shear cuts great when it doesn't lock up. I have disassembled it numerous times, filed the planetary gear teeth, and added a longer locator pin as the gasket would spin and block off the air orifaces. It is just amazing how close they(Chinese) get to a functional tool but equally amazing that they can't take that last little step to correct problems. Heck, even cleaning the casting sand/grinding dust out of the parts would be a huge inprovement and might even allow them to see that the tolerances are way too loose. JMO