Here's the kill switch I fabricated. This grounds out the coils. It functions like and looks very similar to an original except the spring is bent to conform to the shape of the bars. Before I trimmed the metal spring around the button, I got a nasty shock when the web of my hand hit it. Works perfectly now.
Here's the battery box I'm building. It fits snugly in front of the rear wheel. I hope to relocate the ignition switch and maybe the regulator add a small AGM battery so I can start it without a jump. I left enough room for a fender. You can see I cut out an access door on the right side. I hope to find a piano hinge to tack in place for the door.
To mount it I fabricated two brackets similar to those that hold the fuel tank. I made two backing strips and drilled/threaded two holes in each for the straps. These go inside the box and are plug welded to the front. 1/4" X 20 bolts hold it on.
Here it is loosely in place. Since I made a mock up out of cardboard, it actually fits quite snugly. Here it is hanging as I tried to slide a fender in there. The fender will be bobbed and will have a kick stand clip on it. It will mount under the box and with brackets in the back.
Here's how the right side looks without the door:
Below is one of the axle adjusters. Having the adjusting bolts hitting just the washers worked until they were tight - then they would slip over the front edge of the washers and do nothing. It was just something I had put off.
I notched the washers and then center-drilled some bar stock in the lathe. The tubes are only about .300 long. I laid the tubes in the notches of the washers and brazed them in place. Do this on some scrap aluminum so it won't stick. I didn't jig these. The pieces were small and wanting to shift around a bit but once the flux melted it was as if that held things in place. You can tap things in position with the cool brazing rod while you heat the parts. Once done, the back surface sits flush with the dropout and aligns perfectly with the bolt. I left the parts rough and didn't clean up all the excess brazing - it fits the look of the bike.
Here's the kill switch I fabricated. This grounds out the coils. It functions like and looks very similar to an original except the spring is bent to conform to the shape of the bars. Before I trimmed the metal spring around the button, I got a nasty shock when the web of my hand hit it. Works perfectly now.
Here's the battery box I'm building. It fits snugly in front of the rear wheel. I hope to relocate the ignition switch and maybe the regulator add a small AGM battery so I can start it without a jump. I left enough room for a fender. You can see I cut out an access door on the right side. I hope to find a piano hinge to tack in place for the door.
To mount it I fabricated two brackets similar to those that hold the fuel tank. I made two backing strips and drilled/threaded two holes in each for the straps. These go inside the box and are plug welded to the front. 1/4" X 20 bolts hold it on.
Here it is loosely in place. Since I made a mock up out of cardboard, it actually fits quite snugly. Here it is hanging as I tried to slide a fender in there. The fender will be bobbed and will have a kick stand clip on it. It will mount under the box and with brackets in the back.
Here's how the right side looks without the door:
Below is one of the axle adjusters. Having the adjusting bolts hitting just the washers worked until they were tight - then they would slip over the front edge of the washers and do nothing. It was just something I had put off.
I notched the washers and then center-drilled some bar stock in the lathe. The tubes are only about .300 long. I laid the tubes in the notches of the washers and brazed them in place. Do this on some scrap aluminum so it won't stick. I didn't jig these. The pieces were small and wanting to shift around a bit but once the flux melted it was as if that held things in place. You can tap things in position with the cool brazing rod while you heat the parts. Once done, the back surface sits flush with the dropout and aligns perfectly with the bolt. I left the parts rough and didn't clean up all the excess brazing - it fits the look of the bike.
